I Blame Audrey Hepburn

Preface to this post: As my mother will attest to, I usually (always) need a solid shove out of my comfort zone. I would happily live within my bubble for the rest of my life if I didn’t realize that that doesn’t make for a very exciting existence.

A few months ago back in the states, I watched Roman Holiday with my parents.The movie is amazing so watch it if you haven’t. Gregory Peck and Audrey Hepburn are so beautiful, the plot is a classic, and Rome as the backdrop steals the show. My favorite scene – besides the perfect ending – is when she gets her haircut. Here is the clip!

I immediately knew that if I went to Rome, I had to do that. Besides wanting to be Audrey Hepburn, I wanted to, like her character, do something new and exciting and break out of my routine. In the weeks leading up to my departure, I told everyone that I was going to chop off my hair in Rome. I felt like if I told people, I would be more apt to actually follow through.

Well, unlike Audrey Hepburn, who just gracefully wandered off the street into a perfect salon near the Trevi Fountain, my journey was not so easy. First, I kind of forgot about my idea for the first two weeks. I was so busy seeing everything in Rome and doing classwork and traveling on weekends that it just slipped my mind. By the time I remembered, I thought Maybe I just won’t do it…..it seems kinda scary…..and I don’t really have time…..

But then I thought about my mom. She was the one who gave me the push to go abroad – and many many pushes before then – and I knew if she was here she would give me the push I needed to do this, too. But she wasn’t. So I had to do it myself. I promised myself that I would do this because I wanted to.

Two weeks passed and I had gotten salon recommendations from my professor and I had even tried to go to one after school one day, but public transportation failed me and I took it as a sign. But I was determined to not give up. Time has FLOWN abroad, and with only a week (WHAT) left in Rome, I knew this week was the week it had to happen.

A girl in my class, Perrine, is French and has been a student at AUR for two years. She is mellow, sweet, and has amazing dry humor. We have become friends and I told her about my quest for a haircut. On Monday, she walked me to a salon near school and said it was a great place. It was closed on Mondays so I decided to come back on Wednesday – today.

The unassuming "Coiffeur"

The unassuming “Coiffeur”

Today class ended, and with butterflies in my whole body, I ventured to the salon. The solid friend that she is, Perrine came with me. And thank god for that.

“Buongiorno. Vorrei un taglio?” I said.  (Hello, I want a haircut)

Very fast Italian was then spewed my way and I looked wide-eyed at Perrine. With her as my translator, I maneuvered the questions and got across what I wanted – a simple shoulder-length cut.

After being shampood and conditioned, it was go-time. My stylist was a brusque looking women with blue eye-shadow, but when she saw my terrified-anxious-excited expression, she broke into a warm smile.

The whole thing took under half an hour. It was very unceremonious – probably for the better – and with every snip, I felt more and more confident. Perrine was shooting smiles my way every time I glanced at her, and when the lady started to blow-dry my hair, I could see that it turned out just as I wanted.

Before picture. From this weekend in Germany in a gorge.

Before picture. From this weekend in Germany. My hair had gotten really long and I was really ready for it to be off my head. 

After picture! This was me trying to be cool on the bus home.

After picture! This was me trying to be cool on the bus home.

When really I felt like this. :)

When really I felt like this. :)

I did it, mom! I did it, world! I pushed myself!

In reflection, although it felt like I needed to get my haircut abroad to prove that I was able to get out there and be independent, I’ve realized that I’ve been doing that all along. I’ve mastered (okay, handled) public transportation, eaten unidentified meat, and traveled to Germany for a weekend with only four other 20-something girls.

Hey guys, life is cool when you do new things.

Weekend in Florence: This is a long one, folks.

Here in Italy, I am always on the go. This weekend I spent a short but very full few days in Tuscany.

On Friday morning, a Coach bus for the ISA (International Studies Abroad) kids left bright and early for Firenze (what the Italians call Florence). After a 5 hour drive, we had arrived! At this point it was about 2:30 in the afternoon and I immediately realized that Firenze is noticeably warmer than Rome. We had to walk to our hotel, as the center of Florence is primarily pedestrian-only, and I was drenched. Our hotel was also on the second floor and with only a small, 3 person capacity lift, and that did nothing to help the situation. I roomed with two of my roommates here in Rome, Courtney and Ashley (LOVE them), and after we briefly got settled into our room, we were off on a walking tour of the area.

Firenze is gorgeous. I loved that the streets were free of cars and I loved the medieval feel of the town. The architecture is preserved so well because they actually stopped all new construction of buildings in 1895! After walking past the Medici house, we stumbled into the square that holds the Duomo of Florence. I say stumbled, because all of a sudden there was this amazing, massive, intricate cathedral in front of us, with no warning. That is a common theme in Italy. It is made of marble – green, pink, and white. More on it later.

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We then weaved through streets seeing the highlights of the area including the bridge Ponte Vecchio that stretches across the Arno river. It’s unique because on it are jewelry shops. Gold and silver are everywhere. The shops actually used to be homes – can you imagine living there?

Reppin' Northwest and Common Ground!

Reppin’ Northwest and Common Ground on the Ponte Vecchio!

See what I'm saying about the houses on the bridge?

See what I’m saying about the houses on the bridge?

Our final destination for the tour was the Uffizi Gallery – a renowned art museum. Here we saw the first portrait in art, a room full of Botticelli’s, and, uh, oh yeah – a Michelangelo and da Vinci or two. Just a casual thing.

The first portraits in art!

The first portraits in art!

Michelangelo's "Doni Tondo"

Michelangelo’s “Doni Tondo”

"This is what happens to the men when they don't buy jewelry for the women in Florence." -Francesca, our tour guide

“This is what happens to the men when they don’t buy jewelry for the women in Florence.” -Francesca, our tour guide

After this, we had the night to ourselves and spent it exploring markets – both of the food and goods variety. Gelato, of course, was involved. I had peach gelato – which was DELICIOUS because peaches are in season – and ate it with my friend Andrea on the steps of the Duomo as night arrived.

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The sun sets on the Duomo

Saturday, we woke up early to go on another walking tour. This one took us into the Duomo, which is the size of one and a half football fields. One of the coolest parts, for me, was the clock. It goes from hours one to twenty four and shows how long it has been since the last sunset.

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We were at hour thirteen.

After gawking at the painted dome, we headed to the Galleria Accademia. This museum holds the David, along with 6 other sculptures of Michelangelo’s. The 6 others are commonly called the Prisoners because he didn’t finish them – leaving them stuck in stone. He did these when he was 16 or 17. Sixteen or seventeen. Yeah. Okay. The David was at the end of the hallway basking in perfect lighting from a skylight. It’s seventeen feet tall and perfect. Our tour guide called him her boyfriend and took us around back for what she dubbed “the girl’s view.” Couldn’t complain… Michelangelo started the David when he was 26 and it took him three years to complete. It was all sculpted from one block of marble – whoa.

The girl's view ;)

The girl’s view 😉 Not too shabby. 

Okay, fine, here's a real one.

Okay, fine, here’s a real one.

After doing some more gawking, I went through the rest of the museum and got a little separated from my friends. I tried to find them at this lunch spot, but I had failed to get the name of it, so I got a 3 euro panino instead and it was the best one I have had so far. I was just walking through the streets of Florence, enjoying the day, when I came across some of my other friends who were preparing to climb to the top of the Duomo. I had planned on doing this anyway, so I quickly bought a ticket and tagged along.

Street art! Remember the first portrait dude??? It's him!

Street art is cool! Remember the first portrait dude??? It’s him!

Now, climbing the Duomo is a feat. We panted up 436 steps (roughly). The view was definitely worth it, though. I could see all of Florence sprawled out beneath me. We stayed up there taking a million pictures that will never ever capture the true experience.



Our next stop was the leather markets. Some of the girls were looking for shoes, bags, or jackets. I’m not much of a leather gal, but it was fun to go from shop to shop watching them try on jackets and haggle the prices down. After about the eighth shop, however, I was feeling dehydrated and went back to my room to hopefully find my roommates.

SIDENOTE: Rome is amazing because everywhere you go, there are public fountains that spew out cold, fresh water! We have learned to take advantage of these and I really missed them while in Florence.

My roommates and I wanted a great dining experience that night, so we did our research and ended up at a place called La Buchetta. It ended up being probably the best meal I have had so far. As has been my way this trip, I went with what the waiter suggested and got the ravioli. It came in aluminum foil and the sauce was a mixture of eggplant, tomato, capers, and spices. To. Die. For. Afterwards, can you guess? Gelato from a place with a chocolate fountain for a wall!!





Chocolate fountain for a wall. Florence does it RIGHT.

Chocolate fountain for a wall. Florence does it RIGHT.

As previously mentioned, I like to go with what the people serving it like the best, so I got two flavors - something called "Cremino" and pistacchio. Yum.

As previously mentioned, I like to go with what the waiters/servers recommend, so I got two flavors – something called “Cremino” and pistacchio. Yum.

The next day was our last in Tuscany and we headed into the countryside for a wine tasting/lunch at Verrazzano Castle. The landscape looked like it had been painted. We toured the cellars – the NEWEST one being six hundred years old – and then settled in for lunch. Pasta, wine, cured meats, and cheese. It was all freshly prepared using local ingredients. Probably my favorite item was balsamic vinegar on pecorino cheese. We seriously only got a spoonful of the balsamic vinegar, because they age it for ten years and it goes for 50 euro for 100 ml, but it was heavenly. Much sweeter and thicker than the balsamic I was used to. We dipped a small slice of pecorino cheese – cheese made from sheep’s milk – in it, and I could have made that my whole meal. The cheese crumbled and melted the moment it hit your mouth and its buttery sharp taste was perfectly accented by the sweet balsamic. Man. I’ll be thinking about that combo for years.

Those are some big wine barrels.

Those are some big wine barrels.

Wait, did I used to be a vegetarian? The wild boar salami was my favorite.

Wait, did I used to be a vegetarian? The wild boar salami was my favorite.

Our spoonful of balsamic vinegar.

Our spoonful of balsamic vinegar.

I'm telling you. The view.

I’m telling you. The view was stellar.

Tuscany was an amazing experience. Florence is quaint and frozen in time – if just a tad sweltering. I’m so happy I went, but I’m even happier that I chose to study in Rome. Rome provides something new every single day – I’m still falling more in love as time goes on!

Papal Perspective

The Pope calendar in our apartment definitely set the tone for the day.

The Pope calendar in our apartment definitely set the tone for the day.

On Saturday, May 30th, I spent six hours in the Vatican City. Four were spent in the Vatican Museums. One was spent eating. One was spent admiring the Piazza de San Pietro.

Pictures will never be enough. Words will never be enough.

The Vatican Museums hold painting upon painting upon sculpture upon tapestry of gorgeous, meaningful religious art. Every new room or hallway brings new art and a new short moment of your breath being taken away. The ceilings are always painted and always unbelievable. It’s an experience everyone should have.

This ceiling. So intricate and stunning.

This ceiling. So intricate and stunning.


I saw da Vinci’s, Raphael’s, Van Gogh’s, and Dali’s that day. Sometimes they wouldn’t even be displayed prominently. I almost missed van Gogh’s “Pietra” but I luckily decided to loiter in the small room for a bit longer and look at a few more pieces. Let me repeat that: I ALMOST MISSED A VAN GOGH. But that’s because it’s only a small drop in the extensive collection of the Vatican. It’s unreal.

da Vinci's "St. Jerome in the Wilderness"

da Vinci’s “St. Jerome in the Wilderness”‘

Raphael's "The Transfiguration." The last painting he ever completed.

Raphael’s “The Transfiguration.” The last painting he ever completed.

Dali's "Angelic Landscape"

Dali’s “Angelic Landscape”

van Gogh's "Pietra." I ALMOST MISSED IT??

van Gogh’s “Pietra.”


Of course, the highlight of the day was the Sistine Chapel. It’s what the whole day had been leading up to. Walking in that room was heart-poundingly exciting. You know what’s coming – yet you have no idea. After being in the Chapel for about 15 minutes I realized that my mouth had been hanging open the entire time. There was so much to look at and it was all insanely detailed. I just am amazed that the entire room was covered in true-to-form people. I just think at some point Michelangelo would’ve been like “Ugh my arm is sore. Gonna cut some artistic corners here. Gonna clothe some of these people. Maybe invent minimalism right quick.” But no. It’s all full out. In terms of logistics, they have serious rules about being in the Sistine Chapel – women and men have to have their knees and shoulders covered, you have to be silent, and no pictures are allowed. It’s an intensely spiritual experience, and the Vatican works hard to ensure that. It’s also an experience that I believe is made better because you can’t worry about trying to get the right lighting and you aren’t looking past the phones and cameras. You just look at the art and take the few moments to reflect.

Piazza di San Pietro

Piazza di San Pietro

Afterwards, we were waiting for a bus to take us back at a stop about two blocks away from St Peter’s Square. We had just marveled, oohed and ahhed, and selfied away at the Basilica. It’s gigantic and amazing. But all of a sudden there was this man who was walking along the street by the bus stop, in not the best clothes, with untrimmed hair, picking up half smoked cigarettes. Suddenly, the day was put into perspective. Seeing a da Vinci was amazing, but it’s also amazing to consistently have enough money for meals. Some people have one or the other, some have neither. I have both. I’m so thankful for that.

Life is never what you expect (but it’s usually better)

Wednesday was a day I will never forget. We started out getting breakfast before a second day of orientation. The cafe three doors down from us is affordable, the people are super nice – it has become our breakfast place. I just had a cappuccino (cold again, but this time it was my choice and they put whipped cream on top). Orientation was nothing to write home about. Then we had a two and a half hour break before we were due to meet up again as a group for a tour. We decided to stay in the neighborhood of the American University of Rome and explore.

We went to a sandwich shop that we heard was a regular hangout for AUR students and it did not disappoint. I got a zucchini and cheese (swiss, maybe?) panini and a homemade lemon iced tea. It tasted like an Arnold Palmer! The guy asked me if I wanted dressing for my panini and I said, “Yes?” and he said “Mustard?” and I said “Sure!” I was super skeptical but it was actually delicious. It was a great experience.

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My adorable roommate Andrea.

My adorable roommate Andrea.


Then we went and just walked up and down the streets and went in some shops and drooled over all the pastries. We also found a beautiful church in the area and took a peek in – those of us with our knees and shoulders covered, of course. It was a calming experience to just sit in the pews and take in the stained glass windows and murals

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At three we met for our bus tour and the skies were darkening. Rain was apparently in the forecast but no one on the bus except the ISA staff had thought to check ahead. Our bus tour started along with the rain. We drove to the area of Rome that has a lot of ancient architecture and ruins. We saw a pyramid (apparently they aren’t just in Egypt??) that is a tomb for a really important dude, I’m sure. We also drove along the ancient wall that used to contain Rome. It seriously blows my mind that everything we saw today is still standing. Then we saw the Baths of Caracalla which are HUGE even though they’re ruins now. You can just tell that it was massive when it was in its hay day.

Then was our time to see the Colosseum. We got out of the bus to see it and it was still sprinkling. We got out of the bus and immediately there was twenty men trying to sell us ponchos or umbrellas. The street sellers (I don’t know if that’s their real name but it’s the closest thing I can think of) can be really annoying but you have to give them credit for being smart and having umbrellas and ponchos at the blink of an eye. I was going to brave the rain but it was picking up and I didn’t have a jacket and I was getting chilly so I figured I should buy a poncho. A guy approached me and said “Five euro.” And I said “One.” And he said “Four” and I said “One” and he said “Three” and I said “One” and he said “Three” and I said “Two” and he said deal. So that was fun.

We loitered around the outside of the Colosseum for a long time waiting for headsets so we could hear our guide, and it was pouring. I honestly was having the time of my life. I mean, it was not ideal, but there are much worse things that could have happened and I was looking at the Colosseum! Not everyone was having as much fun as I was and that was disappointing but I was loving it. People always want to get kissed in the rain but I got to see the Colosseum in the rain and that was equally as cool.

Loving life!

Loving life!

Selfies for days.

The holes in the columns and walls are because they were originally held together with iron clamps and people came and clawed them out to sell them. Also, the original seats were marble and those were stolen too. 


We eventually went inside and that was a little eerie. Because we were in the same hallways that gladiators, wild animals, and men condemned to death had walked in and waited in. The sense of history was insanely overwhelming. It was built in 80 AD. EIGHTY. I’m not sure I can even truly recognize what that means. It was amazing.

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You can see the rain dripping off my nose. :)

You can see the rain dripping off my nose. :)

We were supposed to see the Roman Forum too but the rain had flooded it and a lot of people were very over the situation so they cut it short. We all headed back to the apartment to put on dry clothes and warm up. I was seriously worn out and it felt really good to put on sweats. But wow. I still am really happy with how this day went, even though it wasn’t a sunny gorgeous day. It was a challenge, but I knew I would experience more than a few of those. Nevertheless, I am LOVING Rome!

The Tourist Life Isn’t So Bad

Tuesday was absolutely incredible. In the morning we started out with a quick stop at a café near our apartment. I got a cappuccino (cold, because our whole block lost power like 15 minutes before we left, but still delicious) and a blueberry cornetto (croissant).         IMG_3531 (480x640)


We then adventured to the American University of Rome for orientation. We braved public transportation for the first time (WITHOUT GOOGLE MAPS MIGHT I ADD) and while it was daunting, it eventually worked! We showed up to orientation about 10 minutes late but we don’t think anyone else took a bus so we felt extra proud of ourselves for figuring it out. After orientation we had some plans but got lost and so just wandered back to our apartment to find lunch and freshen up. We got lunch at a place near our apartment and I got two suppli – a rice, cheese, and beef ball that is fried.

The arches that lead to the American University of Rome.

The arches that lead to the American University of Rome.

Our apartment is on Viale de Trastevere. Love the statues embedded in the walls!

Our apartment is on Viale di Trastevere. Love the statues embedded in the walls!

Then we went back to AUR and met up for our walking tour. I was super pumped for this. As I should have been. We walked for a solid 2 and a half hours but we saw SO MUCH I COULDN’T EVEN FATHOM IT. The first amazing thing we saw was a beautiful fountain across from a picturesque view of Rome. AUR sits atop a giant hill so all of Rome was splayed out below us. A million pictures were taken. I got goosebumps when I first saw it. This would be a common theme for the day.

My roommates and I in front of the crazy amazing view of Rome!

My roommates and I in front of the crazy amazing view of Rome!

After this we started walking towards the center of Rome. I’m going to do the rest of this post through mainly pictures because I think that will better convey the beauty and rich history I got to experience.

Crossing the Tiber River. Note the dome of St. Peter's Basilica peeking out over the trees! There is a law in Rome that no building can be taller than it.

Crossing the Tiber River. Note the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica peeking out over the trees! There is a law in Rome that no building can be taller than it.

The small cars never fail to crack me up.

The small cars never fail to crack me up.

Oh hey there, Jesus.

Oh hey there, Jesus. Lookin majestic. 

Piazza Navona.

Piazza Navona. The piazza is long, narrow, and rounded at the end. This is because it was built on the site of a stadium in Ancient Rome where people could come watch the games and competitions. 

I will never get over how overwhelmingly beautiful and meaningful the Pantheon was.

I will never get over how overwhelmingly beautiful and meaningful the Pantheon was.

The Pantheon holds a church. Stunning.

The Pantheon holds a church. Stunning.

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The mid to late 1800s were marked by enormous flooding in Rome. This marker shows where the water level was in 1870!

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Rome is a city built on its own ruins. This was a cool area where we could see where the original street level was when this building was built.

We wandered around after the tour and got dinner. This is a gorgeous shot of Piazza Navona by night.

We wandered around after the tour and got dinner. This is a gorgeous shot of Piazza Navona by night.

Obligatory Food-Centric Post

Sunday night we had a welcome dinner courtesy of ISA at a place called Ai Spaghettari and, yeah. I don’t even know where to start. We walked in – there was probably at least 50 of us – into this tiny restaurant and there was a guy tossing pizza dough into the air and then turning around and getting bread out of a serious brick oven. At that moment I knew I was in Roma.

We sat down to a table already stocked with bread, balls of the freshest, most delicious mozerella, prosciutto, a bottle of sparkling water, and a bottle of still water. We had barely started eating when a server brought a platter of bruschetta. I am already a huge fan of bruschetta so it didn’t have to do much work, but man. The tomatoes were so fresh and the sauce was light but delicious. The minute we finished that a pizza was set on our table. It was basically just the crust and meat. The meat looked like ham but with spots of white and grey….I don’t know what it was but it was surprisingly delicious. It was salty and the crust was to die for. Then a mystery dish was brought. We had no idea what it could be. It just looked like little fried balls. AKA the most delicious fried balls ever. It was rice, beef (?), and cheese. Fried. We found out later they are called “suppli” and I remembered hearing about how delicious they are before coming over here.

Bruschetta (the correct pronunciation is broo-ske-ta!)

Bruschetta (the correct pronunciation is broo-skeh-ta!)

Still don't know what the meat was. Still delicious.

Still don’t know what the meat was. Still delicious.

Suppli! All these pictures are of the food half-eaten because I didn't want to wait to take a picture before eating it.

Suppli! All these pictures are of the food half-eaten because I didn’t want to wait to take a picture before eating it.

At this point we thought our meal was over. But no. Then the pastas came. The first was a pasta called calamari rings (I think?) in basically a butter sauce and seasoning. I could only eat a few but it was fantastic. Then another pasta! This one was ziti with red sauce and a mystery meat that I stayed away from (my vegetarian tendencies are deeply engrained) but it was equally delicious. At this point we were about to burst. Was it over? No! The next dish – SO WEIRD AND YOU WOULD NEVER GUESS BECAUSE IT’S A WEIRD ORDER OF COURSES – was potatoes. God personally created those potatoes I swear. They were kind of cubed, but not that exact, and they melted in my mouth. I’m sure they were slathered in butter, so super healthy, but who cares. I will never forget those potatoes. Thank you for those potatoes, Roma.

The best potatoes I will ever eat.

The best potatoes I will ever eat.

Next was what I had been trying not to get my hopes up for because I had no idea what we would be getting out of this free meal (although at this point all my expectations had been blown away). Next was dessert. I made sure to ask the server what the name of it was because it was so good. It is called mimosa cake. I’m not exactly sure of these exact ingredients, but I’m pretty sure it had chocolate and vanilla custard layered with a super light sponge cake and whipped cream. It was incredible and the perfect ending to this insane meal.

In total: seven courses – not counting the bread, mozzarella, and prosciutto that already was on our tables. It was the perfect welcome dinner to Roma. Thank you ISA!

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Ciao, Rome!

Well, I made it – I’m officially in Roma!

This has been probably the longest day (days?) of my life but it has also been one of the best. I left my home in Omaha at 2:30pm and arrived at my new home at 10:30am the next day. I have yet to get one ounce of sleep since waking up at 9am yesterday – yikes – but it has been one giant, amazing adventure.

After arriving at Fiumicino, the airport in Rome I flew into, I met up with the ISA (International Studies Abroad) group. We unfortunately ended up waiting at the airport for almost two hours waiting for more people and buses. But a group of us went to the little cafe upstairs and there I bought my first real Italian cappuccino! I’ve never been much of a coffee drinker but I figured….when in Rome…. Some other people got espressos and they came in doll-sized cups. Too cute.

When I finally got to my apartment, I was pleasantly surprised! It is really cute and spacious. I’m rooming with 5 other girls who all are very kind and awesome – I’m looking forward to getting to know them more. There are three rooms and two bathrooms. It’s all very open and the sounds of the street are a little noisy, but cool. After settling in, we decided to go explore our new neighborhood.

Our neighborhood is called Trastevere and wow. It is beautiful. The architecture of every building is unique and stunning. And the stores! And cafes! On our block alone there are so many little shops – one that has fresh fruit and veggies, one that has bread and wine, and one that is more like a cafe… I’m hoping to make that my breakfast stop. We walked up and down the streets just taking it all in. We kept saying, “We’re in Rome! We live here!” It is starting to sink in, but I’m sure tomorrow when I wake up I will momentarily believe I’m still in Omaha.

Can you spot the kitty?

Kitty in the window

Tonight we are all going to dinner as a giant ISA group and I am looking forward to my first big Italian meal. Tomorrow, we’ll tour the city and go through orientation for the university. In the meantime, I am trying to stay awake. I’ll be sure to post more, so check back whenever!